I would not use drain cleaner on the commode. The trap will hold it and it is a serious waste of cash. You probably have toilet tissue or something lodged in the channel. Use a small plumbing snake or a power plunger.
We had an upstairs toilet that constantly ran. We recently replaced it with a new one thinking it would solve the problem, but it didn't. What would be the other reason?
If the water supply to the commode is running, it is because the internal tank mechanism is faulty. Consider replacing it with a fluid master. Buy the entire replacement kit with all of the gaskets.
I'd like to put in a drop ceiling in my basement. What is the difficulty level for this. Any recommendations? Will it provide me with a little sound insulation to the above main level? When the kids are playing in the basement we can hear then almost clearly in the main floor family room!
If your space in the basement is unfinished, consider some unfaced insulation and/or soundboard. You could also use drywall. A drop ceiling is meant to hide mechanical chutes (heating and air vents. Drop ceilings are not very difficult, they just don't have any sound muting capability. Much more costly and effective to insulate.
How do I know if we need new windows? Our house was built in 1992 and they are the original windows. There are drafty spots around several of the windows and condensation forms on some. Also, it's two story if that matters. We live in the Midwest.
New windows are very, very expensive. if there are drafty spots around the windows, consider removing the trim and adding some insulation to the space around the window and the framing. Be careful of the spray insulation as it expands an too much will result in your windows not properly functioning. As far as the condensation, the glass is filled with gas and there has been a breech in the seal. Any glass company can replace the glass for far less than a contractor would charge to replace the window. How many stories has nothing to do with your issue. The Mid-West is know for its blowing winds. You may want to consider storm windows. Again, Much, much more cost effective than replacement. They also will help with your energy bill and can have tax benefits (check with a professional tax adviser before relying on this)
Carpet or hardwood? I can't decide. I'm sick of worrying about kids staining the carpet, but some people say that hardwoods are harder to maintain or can be too soft. What type of hardwoods are the best for an average budget?
As you can probably tell from my recent projects, I am a hardwood guy all the way. Can anyone say; "area rugs"? Carpets hold dust and allergens, not to mention dirt. Hardwoods are far more easy to keep clean. Can't use a swifter on a carpet! Personally, I have never had to "Maintain" hardwoods, they are forever! If you mean cleaning, well can you say "vinegar and water"?
I live in a very small studio and storage is an issue, obviously, and am trying to find a way to have a combined bed and seating area to save space. I came up with an idea that I’ve tried to research plans for but can’t seem to find anything. I can’t be the first person to have thought of it so people must have tried it and found some type of flaw with the idea and moved on to some other way of doing it.
I was wondering if I could get some advice/suggestions/ideas/thoughts on it, please.
Since I can't post the pics I'm referring to, I hope you can access the links:
http://www.motherearthnews.com/multimedia/image-gallery.aspx?id=116776#axzz2K9LnUgUh -- Book nook with under window seating
http://alturl.com/mas43 -- Day bed with underneath storage and 'arms'
Place the day bed where the window seat is (there is no window and since the place is dark, I was thinking of adding a large mirrored surface with track lighting above, using the mirror to redirect the light back into the room) in the first picture and instead of both the book shelves, replace with larger shelves/cupboards/drawers combination (pretty much my closet if you will) and you have it.
The place where the window is in the picture, there would be a wooden trim that butted up against the daybed head/foot boards and a piece of wood could be lowered (like a drawbridge) onto the ‘frame’ to be used as the base for cushions to sit on, with throw pillows for the back, against the wall.
Essentially, the bed would be inside a box, or coffin (maybe I should have researched that?), and the pillows and such from the bed would be placed either on the seat or in the drawers under the bed.
My suggestion would be to check IKEA, as this is a more European style idea. If you've tried to build something in place, I think it would be very time consuming and much more expensive than something pre-manufactured.
Thank you for your question, this is a tricky one!
I live in Oregon. It rains here... a lot. I've found several wooden outdoor storage sheds, and I'd like to get one, but if I put it outside (which I'll have to do), it will get wet. Most of the wooden sheds I've found are unfinished, so I get the impression that the wood won't last long. What can I do to prevent rot, mold, etc.?
There are several options for you Justin. The key to preserving your wooden shed is multiple coats of protectorant. If the roof is made of wood, use a water-seal product (like Thompson's or CWF). Re-apply a coat each Spring. On the remainder of the building, use a wood preserver like Cuprinol. Apply several coats each year (Spring). Make sure to allow coats to seep in before applying the next coat.
Howdy Chuck, This is a building question. My name is Robert...for direct reply dually66@hotmail.com ...ok...i plan on building a gambrel 2 story shed. i've looked for plans for my use to no avail...it will not be lived in. 16' x 20'. i will build the 20' beam from (3)-2"x10"x20'..and i was thinking the joists would be 2"x6" boards...will this setup work for the 2nd floor? the second floor will only be storage plus me while i'm up there moving things around. The main floor will be all open(no room or internal walls). and the shed will be pier and beam...all wood, no steel...thank you in advance
I would not use 2 x 6 to span 16'. At 16" On Center (OC), the most you could safely span is about 10' using a 2x6. You will need to use at least 2 x 8 at 16" OC. Keep in mind the weight that you will ultimately be storing will exceed what you plan on at the moment (it always does) and with your weight added to this, that's too much for a 2x6. As always, it is recommended to check your county building codes to be sure. They can be found on your county website.
the 2 x 6 wouldn't span 16'...i was going to put a main support beam down the 20' length in center between 16'....so the 2 x 6 would only run 8'to the main beam
I did not realize that you were placing a main beam down the center. A 8' span with 2x6 16" OC is a meaty floor. Keep in mind that it would not be advisable to take mine or anyone else's opinion without first consulting your local building codes.
i've checked into codes for the area and I was told since it's out in county area, there is no guidline. Country has more grace than city limits. I thought of this floor lay out for the upper level for possible future add on and room for design on main level. With open floor on main level(no interior walls), i felt i would be free to design walls as i seen fit ie..removal, remodel, add on etc... Mainly, I didn't want to be limited on space because of a pesky support standing in the middle of main floor.
The codes are there to make sure there has been an engineering study done on the load and the span. I did some research and the max load bearing even changes on the species of wood you choose to use. I am a carpenter, not an engineer. The building codes should not hinder your future plans, only help you to make sure the minimum standards are met to keep you safe. Keep in mind you homeowners insurance will require this too. Compliance all the way around is critical.
Good point Chuck. i guess I'll have to check with county office to see what I can do. I was told by county official there was no code in country area that it will be erected. So for future reasons I would need to know the material and structural data are up to snuff.
Every municipality has regs on the books for the insurance regulators to asses building failures and liability. You could also contact the Governor's office in your state, they would point you in the right direction. Make good decisions!
You are totally right Carpenter Chuck! I was searching for the Hope diamond of sorts at Home Depot the other day and got so frustrated!! It was first thing in the morning, not in a handful of customers, but do you think I could locate some help? I was looking for an item that their website said that their location had 14 of... of course it wasn't with the other similar items in that category. I went up to customer service to inquire and was told to go back to the aisle and she would send someone from that department over. There was no announcement on the loud speaker and I waited a good 5 minutes only to have no one show up. I decided to give up and headed out of the department only to run into an end cap in an obscure part of the store and found the item I was looking for. On my way to the register, I told the gal to forget it, that I found it, and she gave me an unimpressive smile and said, "Sorry!". UGH!
I feel your pain. I can't tell you how many times this has happened to me. As you know, you always have a resource with Carpenter Chuck! It is a good idea to go into those stores knowing exactly what you need and where to find it. Ask away and good DYI!
Hey Carpenter Chuck. In a local park, there is a wooden bridge (15 by 4 feet) that needs to be replaced. I am planning on ripping out the current bridge and rebuilding it in the same dimensions, and adding handrails on to it. What tools should I use to rip out the current wooden structure? I am planning on keeping the foundation intact and rebuilding the structure. Would you use nails or screws for this project? Any other suggestions? Thank you very much!
You will need a sawzall with wood and metal blades, crowbar, flat bar, 10lb hammer, regular hammer, maybe a chain saw. If you plan on just removing it without saving anything, just pound it out and cut it up. Take plenty of pictures before you start so you can replicate the structure to its original form. I am a big fan of screws, but galvanized nails should be used outside on heavy structures. Great question and great project. Save and Happy DIY. CC
I had a pony (half) wall abt 6' long built by my carpenter not using any support column. It is not stable and wobbles. He says it necessarily needs the support column to prevent this, is he right or has he missed a step. Obviously if it can't be made stable with the column we have no choice but to add it.
Great question! There are several ways to address this issue. A column is not necessary unless there is a load issue. If it is simply a stability issue, consider placing several "T" braces in between the studs (16" OC). Take one side of the drywall or whatever you have covering the framing. Measure between the studs (usually 14.5") and cut two pieces of 2x4. Make a "T" out of the two pieces and screw them together long ways. Then place that in between the studs half way up. Do this on several sections. Make sure that you top plate is doubled up. This will make that wall very sturdy. I hope this helps.
Hi Carpenter Chuck! Your profile says that you have a strong financial background. I was wondering if you could help me out with something. My son, who is now 9 years old, was diagnosed with Type 1 Diabetes back in November of 2008 just shy of his 5th birthday. Over the last four years we have participated in the JDRF Walk to Cure Diabetes. Every year it’s a struggle for me to get out of my comfort zone and fundraise even though this is such a worthy cause. I would love to help JDRF financially so that a cure can be found for my son and the over 3 million Americans that suffer from this disease. This disease should not be confused with Type 2 Diabetes that can be corrected by diet and exercise. My son and many like him were born with a pancreas that does not produce insulin. This means that in order to stay alive he must constantly stop (often more than 10 times a day and/or every two hours), take his blood sugar (prick his finger), and then dose himself anytime he is about to eat. He also needs to check his numbers throughout the day so as not to risk passing out or becoming deathly ill from very low or very high blood sugars. This disease, despite not appearing harmful on the outside, is constantly battling his organs on the inside with each low and high.
Each year, more than 15,000 children and 15,000 adults are diagnosed with Type 1 Diabetes (T1D) in the United States alone.
Here is a link to James' diagnosis story: http://www.craverofamily.blogspot.com/2009/03/diabetes-diagnosis-story.html
Or to his JDRF Fundraising Site: http://www2.jdrf.org/site/TR?px=2011284&fr_id=2125&pg=personal
I could tell marching with you in the QC Irish Society Grand Parade that you have an awesome spirit and are a wonderful family man. http://www.kwqc.com/story/21661230/celebrating-st-patricks-day-at-the-quad-cities-grand-parade
Can you give me some tips on how to fundraise? Would you like to sponsor our walk shirts for this coming 2013 JDRF Walk to Cure Diabetes on May 4th at the Niabi Zoo in Coal Valley, IL? Do you know someone that would? Or friends that would like to walk with us and help fundraise?
Thanks for any assistance you can provide, Carpenter Chuck!
P.S. James was even chosen as 1 of the 3 delegates to represent Iowa in the JDRF Children's Congress this Summer to engage Congress in the importance of research for a cure. He is among 150 children heading to D.C. this July! He is very honored and excited about the trip. A cure for him would mean fulfilling his dream to become a soldier for his country, as they do not admit Type 1 Diabetics in the military.
I wold be happy to help you any way I can. I will certainly sponsor James and we can put a spot on the website to see if people would like to help out. As far as fundraising goes, let's utilize our network of people in the QCA and our corporate friends. We should also use the various social media sites too. Have you thought about setting up a website? We could link it to ours and hopefully get it on some of our corporate friends websites as well. Let get Fundraising for James!!
Filters should be replaced monthly or sooner if they are noticeably dirty. If your system isn't running much, then you can go a little more than a month, but use monthly as a general rule of thumb. Air duct cleaning is something that you would do on an annual basis. This is usually something that is performed during an full unit inspection. If you keep up with your filter changing, you shouldn't really need your ducts cleaned very often.
Great question, thanks!
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Hi Chuck! So I've recently inherited a sailing locker that looks like hell. It has extremely textured wood paneling http://imgur.com/tMQMAWC
I'd like to stain it a teak color (it is a sailing locker after all) but I'm wondering how to stain it since it's so textured. Any advice is MUCH appreciated!
Well, I was finally able to get the pic to load. It looks like a yellow pine plywood. What part of the country are you located in? In any case, I would suggest taking a rag with either mineral spirits or turpentine on it and rub a small inconspicuous area and see if the texture will come off. If the texture is simply a poly-urethane then it should come off with a couple of applications. Then, of course, it will need to be sanded. At that point, you should be able to apply stain. As always, apply a small out of the way area to test the stain.
I hope this helps! Thanks for the question! Happy DIY!
Oh, it looks like you are in Boston? The sea air has probably done a number on the old finish to the point where it is almost gone. The mineral spirits will help clean off the salt and get you ready for a new application. Make sure to allow enough time for the spirits to dry completely before the sanding begins. Wipe the sawdust off with a damp rag with warm water. Allow that to dry fully before attempting to re-coat or stain.
Hi Chuck. Thank you for taking your time to help me. I bought an older house with a newer garage but the problem is the garage roof was not built with trusses, it appears that they tried to do some sort of cathedral ceiling with 2X8's a foot on center, they hook in the center to a 2X8 that runs down the center. The span is about 30 feet. Then they ran spliced 2x6's four foot on center across with 2 upright 2X4's up to the roof. The center of the 2X6's have drooped about 3-4 inches compaired to the outside walls. What do I do to straighten up the sag in the roof? Thank you again.
Great question, one of the best I have received. Would it be possible for you to take a photo and post it to the site so I could take a look? The spans seem to be accurate, but the 2X6's have me concerned.
Carpenter Chuck, is there a simple way for a not so handy do-it-yourselfer to tackle repainting outside light fixtures? I'd like to touch them up with some fixture spray paint, but I'm wondering if it involves disconnecting them and taking them down. What is your suggestion?
This type of DIY is all about the prep. If you prefer to paint them in place, go for it!, but make sure to not spray because it will find it's way (the paint) everywhere you don't want it to go. If you decide to attempt this, tape, tape, tape, and then tape some more! It is easier to take them down, but if you are not too handy, getting them back up could be an issue, especially because it requires electrical wiring (Do not attempt this without first turning off the breakers at the electrical panel box!). In either scenario, first take a wire brush to the area to be repainted. This will cause a swirl-like scratch effect and allow the paint to adhere. Use a metal bonding paint found at any retailer or hardware store.
I have a floor joist that when you tighten a screw into,the screw does not tighten. The surface of the joist seems to have gone somewhat soft.I can't see any fungus or damp so don't know whether it has rot.Do you think this is a big problem?
Thanks for your question. If the screw doesn't tighten and the surface is soft, then chances are there is rot. It does not have to appear damp and mold or fungus may not be visible as not all molds are. What are the symptoms of the soft spot? Is there discoloration of has there been a leak there in the past? What I like to do is take a sharp pencil and poke the surface. If it sinks in, there is rot. If there is rot, there is always a potential problem. One solution would be to "sister" another joist next to the existing one for additional support. By all means, detect the source of the water damage!
Thanks for your question. I hope this helps. Happy DIY!!!!!!
I am building a deck 8'long with a shed roof, (ledger bolted on wall). I am going to use two 4x4 posts with two eight foot 2'x6'boards nailed together with 1/2" plywood in between for beam across top to support rafters. Is eight feet too far a span for this? Will the beam start sagging? Thanks
Your idea for a header beam is right on. 2 x 6 with 1/2" plywood will be strong enough to handle this span. Make sure to "crown" the 2 x 6's upward for your header beam and make sure to use plenty of nails (3 nails every foot). As always, make sure to check with your municipality for local building codes.
Thanks so much for your question and happy DIY! please visit us again for any other questions that arise.
Thanks for the reply.The surface of the joist doesn't look discoloured,I used longer screws in the hope that they might find 'solid' wood.However the screws will still not fully tighten. The floor board on top of the joist has had an attack of woodworm but this could now be inactive.I can't see any evidence of woodworm activity in the joist. If I was to 'sister' another joist to the existing one how would I do that? Would you simply screw it to the old one or use through bolts.
To "sister" another joist simply sandwich another 2 x ? to the existing one. You could either nail it or screw it in place. Through bolts would be very strong, so if that puts your mind at ease, by all means bolt away! Thanks for your questions and happy DIY! Please visit us again for all of your DIY questions!
I am replacing hand rails for a set of steps on my outdoor deck I mitered the bottom post (4x4) and laid my hand rail on top of post with no problem. I cannot get the right miter on the bottom rail that will attach to the inside of my 4x4 post.Which will support my balisters. My question is how do I calculate the proper miter for a nice clean fit? thanks Jim
Thanks for your insightful question, Jim. My suggestion, and the easiest way to approach this without a bunch of calculus, would be to take a scrap piece of what you are using for the bottom rail and cut a 45 degree (or whatever your angle is)as a template. Next, measure up from the step and mark your 4 x 4. Use the template to mark out your cutout. This should do it for you.
Please let us know how it comes out! Visit us again and happy DIY!!
If I understand you correctly the 34" door openeing will be replaced by a 32" exterior door. If so, then fur out the rough opening to fit a 32" door. Use 3/4" plywood and a 1/4" luan strip to make the opening the correct size.
Thanks for your question and don't hesitate to visit us again with more DIY questions!
Hi Chuck, My project is a master bathroom fix. We have a soaking tub with a tile top and a white wood decorative wainscoting surround front. The tile on the tub top was just replaced with new tile to match the rest of the bathroom update. The tile man did poor detail work on the caulk and grout there. We have had to hire someone else to repair that. My husband spackled a few spots on the wood front that got a bit nicked up during the fix. He then sanded the spackled area and painted with a semi gloss Behr paint. Now that it is done, we can see spots through the paint where the spackle was a little to heavy and not fanned out enough. It's not horrible but we want to make it right. We don't know if sanding again will ruin it now that it is fully painted. Should we give it another coat of paint and see? Or should we use a thinker paint, like a primer and then paint with semi gloss again....hoping that more coats will cover the spackle imperfections? We don't want to have to sand down the whole tub front. If we paint again, would a roller instead of a paint brush, give it a little more texture to hide the slight imferpections? Your expertise is would be much appreciated. Thanks
Thank you for your question. Try this, lightly sand the area with a 220 grit sandpaper first, then use a quality primer. Let that stand for 24 hours before painting. Let each coat stand for 12 hours. Coat it twice or even three times. It shouldn't matter if you use a brush or a roller. Your right that a roller will give it a stronger texture. That should do it. Let me know how it comes out.
Thank you for your question and please don't hesitate to ask all of your DIY and home improvement questions right here!
My husband and I inherited a grandfather clock made by my husband's great-great-grandfather. It appears to be made of plywood or something of that nature with a stain that isn't sealed in (I cleaned it and my rag turned brown). The real kicker is that someone in the family line didn't take care of the clock as they should have and it STINKS like urine. I sprayed it down and wiped it with an enzyme cleaner and that helped a small amount, but when it gets humid the clock fills our home with the not-so-pleasant scent of the bladder juices of some relative's poorly trained dog.
We'd like to salvage it, I'd feel terrible putting a family heirloom on the curb, but I don't know that I'm up for sanding the whole 7" tall thing down, nooks and crannies and all, and starting fresh. Can we stain over the current stain with a darker one and maybe use something to seal the stink in? Is there any advice you can give in regard to saving this clock from the trash (because, heirloom or not, it smells BAD and we can't tolerate sitting on our couch and smelling dog pee for the rest of our lives).
Thanks in advance, and, to all your readers out there - NEVER pass down a heirloom that smells like pee. It's just not cool. Not. Cool.
Thanks, Becky for your question. This is a very big concern for many people who want to restore fine furniture items. My suggestion would be to take a fine 220 grit sandpaper to the entire outside of the clock. This process is no more difficult than dusting the item. At this point, you can stain away with any color you would like. The color will be suspect due to the old stain color. The next step is to apply semi or gloss varnish. This application will seal the entire component permanently. Nothing will permeate the wood from this point forward, and the bad smell is gone forever!
This is a wonderful question and I am so happy to help you with such a touching, close to the heart concern. I will post you question on my Facebook page and twitter! Please respond with the results, positive or negative on our site.
Thanks so much, after so much searching online and coming up with no real answers (a lot of people seem to have this problem, but very few people can give a straightforward answer as to how to fix it) it's good to hear that yes, I CAN save this clock, and it won't require me to sand it down to bare wood or dump gallons of chemicals into it or spend a small fortune on specialty sealants. I'll let you know how it turns out, I can't wait to get started, having this project done will be a breath of fresh air - literally!
Thanks, Becky. I am glad to help where I can. Your response is the essence of why this site was created. So many people have nowhere to turn for "trick of the trade" type answers. I am deeply concerned about how many folks out there are left stranded without support. Please tell everyone you know that we exists to help out. Look for your posts on my Facebook page "Carpenter Chuck". You are a featured guest.
My goal is to revolutionize the DIY universe so everyone who wants to attempt a project can do so without spending oodles of cash only to hire someone in the end (if they can even find someone).
Hi Carpenter Chuck The sub floors have rotted out of My 1930 pear and beam home. I live in a hot humid area and the ventilation of the crawl space is poor I have read to add more vents and I have also read not to add vents as they let in more humidity. Is there a moisture resistant sub-floor that I can use or what do you recommend? My e-mail address is taylor.vegetation.control@gmail.com
There are products on the market that are specifically designed for humid climates and crawl spaces. They are usually hard wired by an electrician and are ground faulted. You are correct that more vents do just let more humid air in. Unless you can move that air, it will not help you. If you decide to replace the sub-floor, consider using a CDX tongue and grove plywood and applying a coat of cuprinol or a water seal product to the underside.
Thanks for the opportunity to help out. Please visit us again soon!
Hi Chuck, I live in a rented rowhouse with a recessed window, 41" wide and 16.75" deep, and I want to build a window seat. I have permission from the landlord, as long I can easily remove my project from the wall later. My tentative plan is to mount a frame using 3 2x4's along the sides and back wall, a fourth in front, and one additional piece in the middle, running parallel to the sides. I would put 2x6 on top for the bench. I know most window seats have floor support, but I was hoping that due to the small size of the space, I might be able to avoid it. Do you think this is a safe idea, or do I need to change my plan?
Given the size of your space and the current plan, I would only suggest that you add a few more 2x4 lateral joists along the "seat". This will give extra strength to the sitting area avoiding a floor support. In order for this to be effective, however, there must be strong fastening to the existing wall making certain that your fasteners are into the existing framing.
Thank you for your question and let us know how it turns out! A phot would be great.
HELP! I am a poor first year teacher and would desperately like some mailboxes in my classroom. I am so not willing to fork over 80-100 dollars for them. I would be willing to make my own and have all the tools to do it, but I have NO idea measurement wise how to do it, what to buy etc. PLEASE help a desperate teacher! Here is what I would like it to look like: http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/334099/Fellowes-Literature-Organizer-24-Compartments-23/#firstTab
The unit in the picture is also made in a "Banker's Box" type of material that is much cheaper. It is not as sturdy as the wooden mailboxes, but much cheaper. My concern here is that if you go out and buy the material, build the mailbox yourself, it will cost almost the same amount and your time. I will look into some more scenarios and post again shortly.
Thanks for your question! It is wonderful to help out with your DIY projects.
In a nut shell, yes. You will have a bunch of residue from the thinset that the old tile was used to adhere the tile to the old wood. In addition, you will probably damage the old wood tearing out the existing tile. In the end, it will be to your advantage to replace it (especially for your own sanity!).
Thanks so much for your question and keep visiting us!
Hello Chuck. I have a room with old pine board flooring I would like to put laminate flooring over. However in one corner of the room it sinks 2 inches in 4 feet, to the corner. The corner is where you come down from upstairs, when running down the stairs you can hear a thunk when you step into the room, it is obvious something is not right. The room is over a crawl space, except for the corner that is sinking. The area that is sinking is over old steps that go down into the basement. The foundation is cut around the corner. If I go into my basement I can see a few steps going up into the floor. Ideally I would like to place a house jack, however the floor goes on about a 45 degree angle where it should be placed. The floor (on the angle) seems to be concrete though I don't know how thick. Should I get some kind of 45 degree metal piece that can be screwed or nailed into the concrete floor, or build some kind of wooden frame, or both? I realize you are probably not a laminate fan but I did one room and I think it looks great, if I can get it together to do this other room it would make my year. Thank you, great site.
I have thought about this for most of the day, as it is one of the more compelling questions that I have had the opportunity to address. It seems to me that you have a couple of options. In the first scenario, you could fortify the underpinning with your idea of an angled brace. Whether you use metal or wood, make sure it is very strong. If this is your choice, make sure that it is secure before you attempt to jack up the floor. If you have questions, feel free to visit again and ask specific questions on how to go about that avenue. In the second scenario, it would be a good idea to use piers underneath the crawlspace, jack up the floor, and then shim the difference. Much more robust, but much more labor intensive. The third scenario is to support the existing floor from underneath, then shim the existing floor to match level. I had to do this on one of my properties and it was a viable alternative, as it was a second floor that had succumb to foundation shifting. Despite any decision that you make on this, make sure that the bottom of your stairs is secured! Someone may go right through the floor if left unattended.
Thanks for responding Chuck. I understand options one and three. I'm unsure of the second one. I think the original part of my house is a two-story house with a basement. The basement was entered outside. Then an addition was built on. Instead of tearing out the existing steps and filling in the gap in the foundation, they built the addition over the existing steps (and foundation around the steps). They then built new steps going down to the basement from the addition. (with the ceiling of the new steps cutting out a portion of the living space of the original house first floor room, along with space for the stairs coming down from the second floor. I'm not sure how the second floor was accessed originally). So basically if I go down my steps into the basement and turn to the right I have a gap where the basement wall stops and have steps to nowhere going up into the floor of the addition. Sorry to get off topic a little, a third addition was built around 1900 (found newspaper in wall), which is the kitchen. The whole house is about 1300 square feet. The original part was built before 1850. It is amazing to me a frame structure could last so long.
So there is an angle space from the wall to the old steps, if I understand your explanation? If so, you need to fill this in? I think I would frame it in the heavy material, such as 2x8 or 2x10. This way you can cut the angles to fit with proper strength. Once you secure the floor, then rework the slope from the surface. I hope I am making sense and understanding your situation.
I'm looking to build a wall-mounted computer desk that can support up to 250lbs for my computers/monitors/printer etc.
The desk will be touching 3 walls with dimensions approximately 10'2" L x 30" D and about 2-3" thick.
I have 2 tabletops from IKEA that are 60" x 29 1/2" x 1 1/8" that I was going to use as a surface, but i'm struggling for ideas on how to support the weight (specifically at the front/center) without using legs, and still allowing for not only a comfortable sitting position, but proper structure that everything won't collapse to the floor.
Without legs, you are limiting your options. To support this kind of weight, the only thing that comes to mind would be angle braces from the front of the tabletop down to the back wall as close to the floor as possible. 45 degree angles with through fasteners. Be sure to use strong material for the braces.
I would like to repaint my basement floor which is in great shape, would just like to brighten it up. Its a blue/gray right now. What kind of paint do I use to adhere to already painted concrete floors? Do I need a primer? I have been finding a lot on the topic of painting directly over concrete but not over paint.
Great question, thanks! Paint has come a long way in just a few years. There are products that have paint and primer combined, which will cover almost any surface. Your project has all of the symptoms of proper prep. Prep is the key. Make sure the surface is clean and dry. Use a paint designed for concrete and you should be fine.
Let us know how your project turns out and happy DIY!
Your right, it will sag for sure. From the looks of it, you have a couple of options. Notice the two back uprights against the wall? What I would suggest is run a 2x4 underneath the top about three quarters of the way to the front. Ease the front edge with a 22 1/2 degree or a 45 degree angle cut (so you will not bang your knees if you push your chair all the way under). Then finish with a 2x4 angle (45 degrees) on each end (angle cuts will be long point to long point). Make them about 16 to 20 inches in length. Place them as high up between the 2x4 on the wall and under the top. Fasten with screws, but be careful not to go through the top. This will allow for support and not interfere with the functionality of the desk. This example would be your best option. Don't hesitate to ask away if you have any further questions as you proceed.
Hope this helps and good luck with your project! As always, thanks for asking!
Just had a new door knob and separate dead bolt installed. Along with this had carpenter put a new piece of weather stripping along the jam as well. Now door is difficult to shut and even pops open from the striker plate. Any suggestions on how to fix?
First, try to unscrew the screws on the strike plate and move outward, and tighten back. If no luck, check the jam where the new weather stripping was installed and make sure that there are no areas where the stripping was not properly pushed into the slot. Does you dead bolt not strike either? If so, you will need to shim out the strike to accept the lock strike.
I hope this helps. Excellent question and thanks for visiting. Please ask again if this does not work and we can revisit your situation.
Thanks Chuck. The dead bolt does have a strike plate, but that works fine. Will try your suggestions and let you know how it turns out. Appreciate the help!
I'm doing a house renovation and expanding a room. We've removed sliding doors and opened up the wall. I've been told the threshhold where the door was will now need to be supported by a beam at it's a loadbearing wall. The beam will be exposed as it protrudes down past the interior ceiling. The span is 13 feet across and right now they want to use 2 12" wide beams with a piece of plywood in between for strength. In addition, two 2x4's go across the top. This will result in a 14" exposed area basically splitting the ceiling where the rooms join. We were looking for something much less. My question is can you use a thicker ( 4 or 5 beams) which are not as wide, say maybe 6 inches and will it provide the same amount of support? Thank you!!
Thank you for your question. Sorry for the delayed response.
This is a standard way to approach this kind of span. It would not be a good idea to try to reduce the width just for looks. There is a product known as microlam that may reduce the width, but that would be left to a professional engineer to verify. As always, a review of the city or county codes is recommended.
how much is a good price to charge for pooring over a existing concrete sla 3.5 inches thick @ 2100 sqare feet.. no prepping, just needs poored n finished flat
Thank you for your question, as it is a good one! This is a very important decision. The purpose at hand, as well as any future potential needs are paramount. First, wooden ladders are out.
The types of lightweight materials today's ladders are made out of these days is amazing. I would caution an aluminum ladder if you plan on working outside or by electrical sources. These are the lightest to move around, but can be trouble in electrical storms or by power sources. They also will scratch floors and walls. Fiberglass ladders are more expensive, but I have to say they are tough and durable. I would not recommend a fiberglass ladder for everyday uses, however (changing indoor lightbulbs, dusting, etc...). Depending on your specific needs, keep these things in mind to make your final decision.
I am currently attempting to build my first wardrobe out of 90*18mm hardwood maple, I have very limited knowledge and tools on hand so I am trying to be creative. I have already done a rough measurement and layout of the entire construction including hand drilling dowel holes into the 18mm sides and put together without glue. It has been fairly successful as far as lining up and getting flush although not perfect. The biggest differential is about 1.5mm at most but as we know it will all add up in producing a slightly warped and not flat surface. The material is quite heavy and am worried that it will break over time if I remove the dowels at those points where it is not even, should I be concerned about this or should it be alright? That is the first question, the second is whether or not I should attempt to glue all boards per panel at once(total max spread would be 900mm) or should I glue them one at at time or two at a time or half of them...?
Hopefully I was clear enough with my question, if not please ask me to give you further knowledge.
Thanks for your question. Your questions somewhat overlap each other. Your first question, without glue, you would end up with problems because there wouldn't be any fasteners. So secondly, gluing is important. Try to one side and then the other once it has set up. It is never a bad idea to reinforce your shelves with angle fasteners. They strong and inconspicuous. Make sure your dowels are long enough to penetrate both sides!
When I was stripping a 6-panel pine door, I was too heavy with the pull scraper and hacked up some of the detailed areas. If I could try to explain the part I'm talking about....there are 6 recessed panels on the door, and around each panel there is what looks like a quarter round beading. This quarter round area is what is hacked up. Is there a way to cut out this area, and then maybe glue in new quarter round trim? Thanks!
I'm building a red oak fire pit table. the tabletop will be 1x4 pieces with a half inch in between each piece with a propane heater inset in the center of the table.I have but two coats of stain and I'm going to apply 3-4 coats of marine spar varnish. My question is what it's the best way to protect it from the heat?
Great question! Thank you for allowing us to help you in your pursuit of DIY excellence!
This is a tough question and you may not like my suggestion here. The only real way to protect against heat is with metal. You could wrap the area around the heater insert (this resembles a counter stove-top range). If you use stainless steel, this may give you a classic look.
If you can locate the seem where the quarter round sits, you could take a razor knife and gently score the seems multiple times, breaking the varnish seal, then take the thinnest putty knife you can find and gently tap it into the seem. this will allow you to pry up the quarter round. Do this very gingerly because it has been previously glue and some would will try to come with it. Then you have a mess. This should allow you to replace the quarter round.
If this is not an option, then buy a Dremel tool and use it with a rounded sanding disk (light grit) and try to sand out the gouges.
Good luck! Make sure you tell us how it turned out!
Recently, My husband and I accepted an estimate from a local window installation company. After agreeing with the salesman's estimate I was confused a couple days later when the install guy came to measure our windows for the install. He proceeded to tell me that after installation was finished I would have to purchase stain and paint a small piece of wood "stopper"? on each window myself. That this piece did not come pre-stained and they couldn't guarantee their stain would match so they leave it up to the customer. I was dumbfounded! I was paying a lot of money for this job to be done and it wouldn't be finished until my husband or I stained the "stopper"? WTF? Does this sound right? Am I being unreasonable to think that paying for a job to be done should mean the company actually COMPLETED the job?? Please help. Should be pull the plug on this company? Or is that standard operating procedure??
Thank you for your question! This is a compelling situation and I am glad to assist.
You are spot on that this is a bad deal. Paying for a service is meant to be completed as the terms state. By no means is this close to standard procedure. I would be very wary of this company if I were you. Think about half way into the job when your home is torn apart, will they be reliable, on time, or neat?
Not to mention, as many years as I have in the building business, I have never heard of a "stopper" for a window.
Be very wary of this one.
Great question, don't hesitate to seek us out for more information.
Hi Chuck, I have a question regarding my entertainment center. It has a base with two little cabinets to open, and then where the TV goes (on top) there are shelves that go on the side, then about 4 inches in there are two vertical wooden boards. I want to take out these wooden boards so that i can fit a bigger tv in there and just not have the shelves anymore. There is still a back piece and two front corner stands where the roof of the entertainment center goes. My question regards how the two wooden boards, that i want to take out, are connected. It looks like the top of a Philips-head screw facing horizontal but it doesn't go anywhere. It's connected to a screw/piece of metal going vertical into the wood. ( i tried to illustrate it below because I have never seen anything like it before. I wasn't sure how to take those out, if I should try to saw off the metal going into the wood or if there is a way to take out the Philips-head looking screw that is connected to the piece of metal going vertical.
(There are also no holes on top of the entertainment center) _______________this line is the ceiling of the entertainment center where the metal goes into it I And these two lines are the metal piece going into the Philips-head hollow piece I 00 This is the Phillips head hollow piece
Would it be possible for you to take a picture and place it on my Facebook page? It is difficult to envision your situation. On FB we are CarpenterChuck.
I have discovered wood rot at the bottom of the door jam leading out to my deck. In addition, there appears to be addition rot to the interior trim at the bottom of the door jam.
In an effort to mitigate the water damage, I was considering installing a storm door but I've not seen this before. What do you suggest?
This is a common problem and I always suggest looking into any warranty that may be left on the original door purchase. If the door is older and there is no chance of that, then arresting the spread of the rot is the best choice. Note: (Before you get started, take a sharp pencil and apply light pressure to the potentially rotted area. This will give you some idea of the extent of the damage. If it is significant, you may be wasting you time and money trying to fix rather than replace). Do this by either buying some high grade exterior latex paint, or in the case of stained surface, a water type sealer (Carpenter Chuck does not currently endorse specific products). A storm door will help greatly to keep water out, but not moisture. Also, be careful with the cylinder placement on the storm door. this may be an issue if the rot is significant. Make sure to use exterior caulk when installing the storm door.
This question is regarding the Entertainment Center.. was this a "kit" or something you designed yourself?
ReplyDeleteI built that in the space provided, custom to what the use was going to be.
DeleteDo you give financial advice?
ReplyDeleteAbsolutely.
DeleteI have a toilet that always seems to clog or is slow to empty. Is it safe to use drain opener on it?
ReplyDeleteI would not use drain cleaner on the commode. The trap will hold it and it is a serious waste of cash. You probably have toilet tissue or something lodged in the channel. Use a small plumbing snake or a power plunger.
DeleteWe had an upstairs toilet that constantly ran. We recently replaced it with a new one thinking it would solve the problem, but it didn't. What would be the other reason?
ReplyDeleteIf the water supply to the commode is running, it is because the internal tank mechanism is faulty. Consider replacing it with a fluid master. Buy the entire replacement kit with all of the gaskets.
DeleteCC
I'd like to put in a drop ceiling in my basement. What is the difficulty level for this. Any recommendations? Will it provide me with a little sound insulation to the above main level? When the kids are playing in the basement we can hear then almost clearly in the main floor family room!
ReplyDeleteIf your space in the basement is unfinished, consider some unfaced insulation and/or soundboard. You could also use drywall. A drop ceiling is meant to hide mechanical chutes (heating and air vents.
DeleteDrop ceilings are not very difficult, they just don't have any sound muting capability. Much more costly and effective to insulate.
How do I know if we need new windows? Our house was built in 1992 and they are the original windows. There are drafty spots around several of the windows and condensation forms on some. Also, it's two story if that matters. We live in the Midwest.
ReplyDeleteNew windows are very, very expensive. if there are drafty spots around the windows, consider removing the trim and adding some insulation to the space around the window and the framing. Be careful of the spray insulation as it expands an too much will result in your windows not properly functioning.
DeleteAs far as the condensation, the glass is filled with gas and there has been a breech in the seal. Any glass company can replace the glass for far less than a contractor would charge to replace the window. How many stories has nothing to do with your issue.
The Mid-West is know for its blowing winds. You may want to consider storm windows. Again, Much, much more cost effective than replacement. They also will help with your energy bill and can have tax benefits (check with a professional tax adviser before relying on this)
Carpet or hardwood? I can't decide. I'm sick of worrying about kids staining the carpet, but some people say that hardwoods are harder to maintain or can be too soft. What type of hardwoods are the best for an average budget?
ReplyDeleteAs you can probably tell from my recent projects, I am a hardwood guy all the way. Can anyone say; "area rugs"?
DeleteCarpets hold dust and allergens, not to mention dirt. Hardwoods are far more easy to keep clean. Can't use a swifter on a carpet!
Personally, I have never had to "Maintain" hardwoods, they are forever! If you mean cleaning, well can you say "vinegar and water"?
I live in a very small studio and storage is an issue, obviously, and am trying to find a way to have a combined bed and seating area to save space. I came up with an idea that I’ve tried to research plans for but can’t seem to find anything. I can’t be the first person to have thought of it so people must have tried it and found some type of flaw with the idea and moved on to some other way of doing it.
ReplyDeleteI was wondering if I could get some advice/suggestions/ideas/thoughts on it, please.
Since I can't post the pics I'm referring to, I hope you can access the links:
http://www.motherearthnews.com/multimedia/image-gallery.aspx?id=116776#axzz2K9LnUgUh -- Book nook with under window seating
http://alturl.com/mas43 -- Day bed with underneath storage and 'arms'
Place the day bed where the window seat is (there is no window and since the place is dark, I was thinking of adding a large mirrored surface with track lighting above, using the mirror to redirect the light back into the room) in the first picture and instead of both the book shelves, replace with larger shelves/cupboards/drawers combination (pretty much my closet if you will) and you have it.
The place where the window is in the picture, there would be a wooden trim that butted up against the daybed head/foot boards and a piece of wood could be lowered (like a drawbridge) onto the ‘frame’ to be used as the base for cushions to sit on, with throw pillows for the back, against the wall.
Essentially, the bed would be inside a box, or coffin (maybe I should have researched that?), and the pillows and such from the bed would be placed either on the seat or in the drawers under the bed.
Any help would be much appreciated!
Thanks,
Julie
My suggestion would be to check IKEA, as this is a more European style idea. If you've tried to build something in place, I think it would be very time consuming and much more expensive than something pre-manufactured.
DeleteThank you for your question, this is a tricky one!
CC
Hi, Chuck!
ReplyDeleteI live in Oregon. It rains here... a lot. I've found several wooden outdoor storage sheds, and I'd like to get one, but if I put it outside (which I'll have to do), it will get wet. Most of the wooden sheds I've found are unfinished, so I get the impression that the wood won't last long. What can I do to prevent rot, mold, etc.?
Thanks!
- Justin
There are several options for you Justin. The key to preserving your wooden shed is multiple coats of protectorant. If the roof is made of wood, use a water-seal product (like Thompson's or CWF). Re-apply a coat each Spring. On the remainder of the building, use a wood preserver like Cuprinol. Apply several coats each year (Spring). Make sure to allow coats to seep in before applying the next coat.
DeleteHowdy Chuck,
ReplyDeleteThis is a building question. My name is Robert...for direct reply dually66@hotmail.com ...ok...i plan on building a gambrel 2 story shed. i've looked for plans for my use to no avail...it will not be lived in. 16' x 20'. i will build the 20' beam from (3)-2"x10"x20'..and i was thinking the joists would be 2"x6" boards...will this setup work for the 2nd floor? the second floor will only be storage plus me while i'm up there moving things around. The main floor will be all open(no room or internal walls). and the shed will be pier and beam...all wood, no steel...thank you in advance
I would not use 2 x 6 to span 16'. At 16" On Center (OC), the most you could safely span is about 10' using a 2x6. You will need to use at least 2 x 8 at 16" OC. Keep in mind the weight that you will ultimately be storing will exceed what you plan on at the moment (it always does) and with your weight added to this, that's too much for a 2x6. As always, it is recommended to check your county building codes to be sure. They can be found on your county website.
ReplyDeleteGreat question and happy DIY
CC
the 2 x 6 wouldn't span 16'...i was going to put a main support beam down the 20' length in center between 16'....so the 2 x 6 would only run 8'to the main beam
DeleteI did not realize that you were placing a main beam down the center. A 8' span with 2x6 16" OC is a meaty floor. Keep in mind that it would not be advisable to take mine or anyone else's opinion without first consulting your local building codes.
Deletei've checked into codes for the area and I was told since it's out in county area, there is no guidline. Country has more grace than city limits. I thought of this floor lay out for the upper level for possible future add on and room for design on main level. With open floor on main level(no interior walls), i felt i would be free to design walls as i seen fit ie..removal, remodel, add on etc... Mainly, I didn't want to be limited on space because of a pesky support standing in the middle of main floor.
DeleteThe codes are there to make sure there has been an engineering study done on the load and the span. I did some research and the max load bearing even changes on the species of wood you choose to use. I am a carpenter, not an engineer. The building codes should not hinder your future plans, only help you to make sure the minimum standards are met to keep you safe. Keep in mind you homeowners insurance will require this too. Compliance all the way around is critical.
DeleteGood point Chuck. i guess I'll have to check with county office to see what I can do. I was told by county official there was no code in country area that it will be erected. So for future reasons I would need to know the material and structural data are up to snuff.
DeleteEvery municipality has regs on the books for the insurance regulators to asses building failures and liability. You could also contact the Governor's office in your state, they would point you in the right direction. Make good decisions!
DeleteYou are totally right Carpenter Chuck! I was searching for the Hope diamond of sorts at Home Depot the other day and got so frustrated!! It was first thing in the morning, not in a handful of customers, but do you think I could locate some help? I was looking for an item that their website said that their location had 14 of... of course it wasn't with the other similar items in that category. I went up to customer service to inquire and was told to go back to the aisle and she would send someone from that department over. There was no announcement on the loud speaker and I waited a good 5 minutes only to have no one show up. I decided to give up and headed out of the department only to run into an end cap in an obscure part of the store and found the item I was looking for. On my way to the register, I told the gal to forget it, that I found it, and she gave me an unimpressive smile and said, "Sorry!". UGH!
ReplyDeleteI feel your pain. I can't tell you how many times this has happened to me. As you know, you always have a resource with Carpenter Chuck! It is a good idea to go into those stores knowing exactly what you need and where to find it. Ask away and good DYI!
ReplyDeleteHey Carpenter Chuck. In a local park, there is a wooden bridge (15 by 4 feet) that needs to be replaced. I am planning on ripping out the current bridge and rebuilding it in the same dimensions, and adding handrails on to it. What tools should I use to rip out the current wooden structure? I am planning on keeping the foundation intact and rebuilding the structure. Would you use nails or screws for this project? Any other suggestions?
ReplyDeleteThank you very much!
You will need a sawzall with wood and metal blades, crowbar, flat bar, 10lb hammer, regular hammer, maybe a chain saw. If you plan on just removing it without saving anything, just pound it out and cut it up. Take plenty of pictures before you start so you can replicate the structure to its original form. I am a big fan of screws, but galvanized nails should be used outside on heavy structures. Great question and great project. Save and Happy DIY. CC
DeleteI had a pony (half) wall abt 6' long built by my carpenter not using any support column. It is not stable and wobbles. He says it necessarily needs the support column to prevent this, is he right or has he missed a step. Obviously if it can't be made stable with the column we have no choice but to add it.
ReplyDeleteGreat question!
ReplyDeleteThere are several ways to address this issue. A column is not necessary unless there is a load issue. If it is simply a stability issue, consider placing several "T" braces in between the studs (16" OC). Take one side of the drywall or whatever you have covering the framing. Measure between the studs (usually 14.5") and cut two pieces of 2x4. Make a "T" out of the two pieces and screw them together long ways. Then place that in between the studs half way up. Do this on several sections. Make sure that you top plate is doubled up. This will make that wall very sturdy. I hope this helps.
Great question and happy DIY!
Hi Carpenter Chuck! Your profile says that you have a strong financial background. I was wondering if you could help me out with something. My son, who is now 9 years old, was diagnosed with Type 1 Diabetes back in November of 2008 just shy of his 5th birthday. Over the last four years we have participated in the JDRF Walk to Cure Diabetes. Every year it’s a struggle for me to get out of my comfort zone and fundraise even though this is such a worthy cause. I would love to help JDRF financially so that a cure can be found for my son and the over 3 million Americans that suffer from this disease. This disease should not be confused with Type 2 Diabetes that can be corrected by diet and exercise. My son and many like him were born with a pancreas that does not produce insulin. This means that in order to stay alive he must constantly stop (often more than 10 times a day and/or every two hours), take his blood sugar (prick his finger), and then dose himself anytime he is about to eat. He also needs to check his numbers throughout the day so as not to risk passing out or becoming deathly ill from very low or very high blood sugars. This disease, despite not appearing harmful on the outside, is constantly battling his organs on the inside with each low and high.
ReplyDeleteEach year, more than 15,000 children and 15,000 adults are diagnosed with Type 1 Diabetes (T1D) in the United States alone.
Here is a link to James' diagnosis story:
http://www.craverofamily.blogspot.com/2009/03/diabetes-diagnosis-story.html
Or to his JDRF Fundraising Site:
http://www2.jdrf.org/site/TR?px=2011284&fr_id=2125&pg=personal
I could tell marching with you in the QC Irish Society Grand Parade that you have an awesome spirit and are a wonderful family man. http://www.kwqc.com/story/21661230/celebrating-st-patricks-day-at-the-quad-cities-grand-parade
Can you give me some tips on how to fundraise? Would you like to sponsor our walk shirts for this coming 2013 JDRF Walk to Cure Diabetes on May 4th at the Niabi Zoo in Coal Valley, IL? Do you know someone that would? Or friends that would like to walk with us and help fundraise?
Thanks for any assistance you can provide, Carpenter Chuck!
P.S. James was even chosen as 1 of the 3 delegates to represent Iowa in the JDRF Children's Congress this Summer to engage Congress in the importance of research for a cure. He is among 150 children heading to D.C. this July! He is very honored and excited about the trip. A cure for him would mean fulfilling his dream to become a soldier for his country, as they do not admit Type 1 Diabetics in the military.
I wold be happy to help you any way I can. I will certainly sponsor James and we can put a spot on the website to see if people would like to help out. As far as fundraising goes, let's utilize our network of people in the QCA and our corporate friends. We should also use the various social media sites too. Have you thought about setting up a website? We could link it to ours and hopefully get it on some of our corporate friends websites as well. Let get Fundraising for James!!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much Carpenter Chuck! God Bless!
ReplyDeleteHow often should I replace my furnace filter? And How often should I get my air ducts cleaned out?
ReplyDeleteFilters should be replaced monthly or sooner if they are noticeably dirty. If your system isn't running much, then you can go a little more than a month, but use monthly as a general rule of thumb.
ReplyDeleteAir duct cleaning is something that you would do on an annual basis. This is usually something that is performed during an full unit inspection. If you keep up with your filter changing, you shouldn't really need your ducts cleaned very often.
Great question, thanks!
Don't forget to like us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter @carpenterchuckr
Hi Chuck!
ReplyDeleteSo I've recently inherited a sailing locker that looks like hell. It has extremely textured wood paneling http://imgur.com/tMQMAWC
I'd like to stain it a teak color (it is a sailing locker after all) but I'm wondering how to stain it since it's so textured. Any advice is MUCH appreciated!
Well, I was finally able to get the pic to load. It looks like a yellow pine plywood. What part of the country are you located in? In any case, I would suggest taking a rag with either mineral spirits or turpentine on it and rub a small inconspicuous area and see if the texture will come off. If the texture is simply a poly-urethane then it should come off with a couple of applications. Then, of course, it will need to be sanded. At that point, you should be able to apply stain. As always, apply a small out of the way area to test the stain.
ReplyDeleteI hope this helps! Thanks for the question! Happy DIY!
CC
Oh, it looks like you are in Boston? The sea air has probably done a number on the old finish to the point where it is almost gone. The mineral spirits will help clean off the salt and get you ready for a new application. Make sure to allow enough time for the spirits to dry completely before the sanding begins. Wipe the sawdust off with a damp rag with warm water. Allow that to dry fully before attempting to re-coat or stain.
ReplyDeleteGreat looking project Kris!
Hi Chuck. Thank you for taking your time to help me. I bought an older house with a newer garage but the problem is the garage roof was not built with trusses, it appears that they tried to do some sort of cathedral ceiling with 2X8's a foot on center, they hook in the center to a 2X8 that runs down the center. The span is about 30 feet. Then they ran spliced 2x6's four foot on center across with 2 upright 2X4's up to the roof. The center of the 2X6's have drooped about 3-4 inches compaired to the outside walls. What do I do to straighten up the sag in the roof? Thank you again.
ReplyDeleteGreat question, one of the best I have received. Would it be possible for you to take a photo and post it to the site so I could take a look? The spans seem to be accurate, but the 2X6's have me concerned.
ReplyDeleteRespectfully, CC
Carpenter Chuck, is there a simple way for a not so handy do-it-yourselfer to tackle repainting outside light fixtures? I'd like to touch them up with some fixture spray paint, but I'm wondering if it involves disconnecting them and taking them down. What is your suggestion?
ReplyDeleteThis type of DIY is all about the prep. If you prefer to paint them in place, go for it!, but make sure to not spray because it will find it's way (the paint) everywhere you don't want it to go. If you decide to attempt this, tape, tape, tape, and then tape some more!
ReplyDeleteIt is easier to take them down, but if you are not too handy, getting them back up could be an issue, especially because it requires electrical wiring (Do not attempt this without first turning off the breakers at the electrical panel box!).
In either scenario, first take a wire brush to the area to be repainted. This will cause a swirl-like scratch effect and allow the paint to adhere. Use a metal bonding paint found at any retailer or hardware store.
Great question and happy DIY!
Regards, CC
I have a floor joist that when you tighten a screw into,the screw does not tighten. The surface of the joist seems to have gone somewhat soft.I can't see any fungus or damp so don't know whether it has rot.Do you think this is a big problem?
ReplyDeleteRegards
MT
Thanks for your question. If the screw doesn't tighten and the surface is soft, then chances are there is rot. It does not have to appear damp and mold or fungus may not be visible as not all molds are. What are the symptoms of the soft spot? Is there discoloration of has there been a leak there in the past? What I like to do is take a sharp pencil and poke the surface. If it sinks in, there is rot. If there is rot, there is always a potential problem. One solution would be to "sister" another joist next to the existing one for additional support. By all means, detect the source of the water damage!
ReplyDeleteThanks for your question. I hope this helps. Happy DIY!!!!!!
Yours,
Carpenter Chuck
I am building a deck 8'long with a shed roof, (ledger bolted on wall). I am going to use two 4x4 posts with two eight foot 2'x6'boards nailed together with 1/2" plywood in between for beam across top to support rafters. Is eight feet too far a span for this? Will the beam start sagging? Thanks
ReplyDeleteYour idea for a header beam is right on. 2 x 6 with 1/2" plywood will be strong enough to handle this span. Make sure to "crown" the 2 x 6's upward for your header beam and make sure to use plenty of nails (3 nails every foot). As always, make sure to check with your municipality for local building codes.
DeleteThanks so much for your question and happy DIY! please visit us again for any other questions that arise.
Regards,
Carpenter Chuck
Thanks for the reply.The surface of the joist doesn't look discoloured,I used longer screws in the hope that they might find 'solid' wood.However the screws will still not fully tighten.
ReplyDeleteThe floor board on top of the joist has had an attack of woodworm but this could now be inactive.I can't see any evidence of woodworm activity in the joist.
If I was to 'sister' another joist to the existing one how would I do that?
Would you simply screw it to the old one or use through bolts.
Regards
MT
To "sister" another joist simply sandwich another 2 x ? to the existing one. You could either nail it or screw it in place. Through bolts would be very strong, so if that puts your mind at ease, by all means bolt away! Thanks for your questions and happy DIY! Please visit us again for all of your DIY questions!
ReplyDeleteThanks, MT.
Regards, CC
I am replacing hand rails for a set of steps on my outdoor deck I mitered the bottom post (4x4) and laid my hand rail on top of post with no problem. I cannot get the right miter on the bottom rail that will attach to the inside of my 4x4 post.Which will support my balisters. My question is how do I calculate the proper miter for a nice clean fit? thanks Jim
ReplyDeleteThanks for your insightful question, Jim. My suggestion, and the easiest way to approach this without a bunch of calculus, would be to take a scrap piece of what you are using for the bottom rail and cut a 45 degree (or whatever your angle is)as a template. Next, measure up from the step and mark your 4 x 4. Use the template to mark out your cutout. This should do it for you.
ReplyDeletePlease let us know how it comes out! Visit us again and happy DIY!!
With patriotic regards,
Carpenter Chuck
I have a exterior door that is 32" and rhe door I need to replace 34" is there anyway I can make the 32" door fir.
ReplyDeleteIf I understand you correctly the 34" door openeing will be replaced by a 32" exterior door. If so, then fur out the rough opening to fit a 32" door. Use 3/4" plywood and a 1/4" luan strip to make the opening the correct size.
DeleteThanks for your question and don't hesitate to visit us again with more DIY questions!
Regards,
CC
Hi Chuck,
ReplyDeleteMy project is a master bathroom fix. We have a soaking tub with a tile top and a white wood decorative wainscoting surround front. The tile on the tub top was just replaced with new tile to match the rest of the bathroom update. The tile
man did poor detail work on the caulk and grout there. We have had to hire someone else to repair that. My husband spackled a few spots on the wood front that got a bit nicked up during the fix. He then sanded the spackled area and painted with a semi gloss Behr paint. Now that it is done, we can see spots through the paint where the spackle was a little to heavy and not fanned out enough. It's not horrible but we want to make it right. We don't know if sanding again will ruin it now that it is fully painted. Should we give it another coat of paint and see? Or should we use a thinker paint, like a primer and then paint with semi gloss again....hoping that more coats will cover the spackle imperfections? We don't want to have to sand down the whole tub front. If we paint again, would a roller instead of a paint brush, give it a little more texture to hide the slight imferpections? Your expertise is would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Thank you for your question. Try this, lightly sand the area with a 220 grit sandpaper first, then use a quality primer. Let that stand for 24 hours before painting. Let each coat stand for 12 hours. Coat it twice or even three times. It shouldn't matter if you use a brush or a roller. Your right that a roller will give it a stronger texture. That should do it. Let me know how it comes out.
ReplyDeleteThank you for your question and please don't hesitate to ask all of your DIY and home improvement questions right here!
Regards,
CC
Thank you so much. I will let you know.
ReplyDeletePlease keep us posted and visit us at our FB page and twitter!
DeleteHi Chuck,
ReplyDeleteMy husband and I inherited a grandfather clock made by my husband's great-great-grandfather. It appears to be made of plywood or something of that nature with a stain that isn't sealed in (I cleaned it and my rag turned brown). The real kicker is that someone in the family line didn't take care of the clock as they should have and it STINKS like urine. I sprayed it down and wiped it with an enzyme cleaner and that helped a small amount, but when it gets humid the clock fills our home with the not-so-pleasant scent of the bladder juices of some relative's poorly trained dog.
We'd like to salvage it, I'd feel terrible putting a family heirloom on the curb, but I don't know that I'm up for sanding the whole 7" tall thing down, nooks and crannies and all, and starting fresh. Can we stain over the current stain with a darker one and maybe use something to seal the stink in? Is there any advice you can give in regard to saving this clock from the trash (because, heirloom or not, it smells BAD and we can't tolerate sitting on our couch and smelling dog pee for the rest of our lives).
Thanks in advance, and, to all your readers out there - NEVER pass down a heirloom that smells like pee. It's just not cool. Not. Cool.
Thanks!
Becky
Thanks, Becky for your question. This is a very big concern for many people who want to restore fine furniture items.
ReplyDeleteMy suggestion would be to take a fine 220 grit sandpaper to the entire outside of the clock. This process is no more difficult than dusting the item. At this point, you can stain away with any color you would like. The color will be suspect due to the old stain color. The next step is to apply semi or gloss varnish. This application will seal the entire component permanently. Nothing will permeate the wood from this point forward, and the bad smell is gone forever!
This is a wonderful question and I am so happy to help you with such a touching, close to the heart concern. I will post you question on my Facebook page and twitter! Please respond with the results, positive or negative on our site.
Thank you for your question and Happy DIY!
Regards,
CC
Thanks so much, after so much searching online and coming up with no real answers (a lot of people seem to have this problem, but very few people can give a straightforward answer as to how to fix it) it's good to hear that yes, I CAN save this clock, and it won't require me to sand it down to bare wood or dump gallons of chemicals into it or spend a small fortune on specialty sealants. I'll let you know how it turns out, I can't wait to get started, having this project done will be a breath of fresh air - literally!
ReplyDeleteBecky
Thanks, Becky.
DeleteI am glad to help where I can. Your response is the essence of why this site was created. So many people have nowhere to turn for "trick of the trade" type answers. I am deeply concerned about how many folks out there are left stranded without support. Please tell everyone you know that we exists to help out. Look for your posts on my Facebook page "Carpenter Chuck". You are a featured guest.
My goal is to revolutionize the DIY universe so everyone who wants to attempt a project can do so without spending oodles of cash only to hire someone in the end (if they can even find someone).
Thanks again and keep visiting us!
Yours truly,
Carpenter Chuck
Hi Carpenter Chuck
ReplyDeleteThe sub floors have rotted out of My 1930 pear and beam home. I live in a hot humid area and the ventilation of the crawl space is poor I have read to add more vents and I have also read not to add vents as they let in more humidity. Is there a moisture resistant sub-floor that I can use or what do you recommend? My e-mail address is taylor.vegetation.control@gmail.com
There are products on the market that are specifically designed for humid climates and crawl spaces. They are usually hard wired by an electrician and are ground faulted. You are correct that more vents do just let more humid air in. Unless you can move that air, it will not help you. If you decide to replace the sub-floor, consider using a CDX tongue and grove plywood and applying a coat of cuprinol or a water seal product to the underside.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the opportunity to help out. Please visit us again soon!
Regards,
CC
Hi Chuck,
ReplyDeleteI live in a rented rowhouse with a recessed window, 41" wide and 16.75" deep, and I want to build a window seat. I have permission from the landlord, as long I can easily remove my project from the wall later. My tentative plan is to mount a frame using 3 2x4's along the sides and back wall, a fourth in front, and one additional piece in the middle, running parallel to the sides. I would put 2x6 on top for the bench. I know most window seats have floor support, but I was hoping that due to the small size of the space, I might be able to avoid it. Do you think this is a safe idea, or do I need to change my plan?
Thanks,
~Anna
Anna, thanks for your question.
ReplyDeleteGiven the size of your space and the current plan, I would only suggest that you add a few more 2x4 lateral joists along the "seat". This will give extra strength to the sitting area avoiding a floor support. In order for this to be effective, however, there must be strong fastening to the existing wall making certain that your fasteners are into the existing framing.
Thank you for your question and let us know how it turns out! A phot would be great.
Happy DIY!
All the best, CC.
HELP! I am a poor first year teacher and would desperately like some mailboxes in my classroom. I am so not willing to fork over 80-100 dollars for them. I would be willing to make my own and have all the tools to do it, but I have NO idea measurement wise how to do it, what to buy etc. PLEASE help a desperate teacher! Here is what I would like it to look like: http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/334099/Fellowes-Literature-Organizer-24-Compartments-23/#firstTab
ReplyDeleteThank you thank you thank you!
The unit in the picture is also made in a "Banker's Box" type of material that is much cheaper. It is not as sturdy as the wooden mailboxes, but much cheaper. My concern here is that if you go out and buy the material, build the mailbox yourself, it will cost almost the same amount and your time.
ReplyDeleteI will look into some more scenarios and post again shortly.
Thanks for your question! It is wonderful to help out with your DIY projects.
Regards, CC
I would like to remove old ceramic tiles, from my countertop. and put down a laminate countertop.do I need to remove the wood that the tiles are on?
ReplyDeleteIn a nut shell, yes. You will have a bunch of residue from the thinset that the old tile was used to adhere the tile to the old wood. In addition, you will probably damage the old wood tearing out the existing tile. In the end, it will be to your advantage to replace it (especially for your own sanity!).
ReplyDeleteThanks so much for your question and keep visiting us!
As always, happy and safe DIY!
CC
Hello Chuck.
ReplyDeleteI have a room with old pine board flooring I would like to put laminate flooring over. However in one corner of the room it sinks 2 inches in 4 feet, to the corner. The corner is where you come down from upstairs, when running down the stairs you can hear a thunk when you step into the room, it is obvious something is not right.
The room is over a crawl space, except for the corner that is sinking. The area that is sinking is over old steps that go down into the basement. The foundation is cut around the corner. If I go into my basement I can see a few steps going up into the floor. Ideally I would like to place a house jack, however the floor goes on about a 45 degree angle where it should be placed. The floor (on the angle) seems to be concrete though I don't know how thick.
Should I get some kind of 45 degree metal piece that can be screwed or nailed into the concrete floor, or build some kind of wooden frame, or both?
I realize you are probably not a laminate fan but I did one room and I think it looks great, if I can get it together to do this other room it would make my year. Thank you, great site.
Thank you, Steve for your question!
ReplyDeleteI have thought about this for most of the day, as it is one of the more compelling questions that I have had the opportunity to address. It seems to me that you have a couple of options.
In the first scenario, you could fortify the underpinning with your idea of an angled brace. Whether you use metal or wood, make sure it is very strong. If this is your choice, make sure that it is secure before you attempt to jack up the floor. If you have questions, feel free to visit again and ask specific questions on how to go about that avenue.
In the second scenario, it would be a good idea to use piers underneath the crawlspace, jack up the floor, and then shim the difference. Much more robust, but much more labor intensive.
The third scenario is to support the existing floor from underneath, then shim the existing floor to match level. I had to do this on one of my properties and it was a viable alternative, as it was a second floor that had succumb to foundation shifting.
Despite any decision that you make on this, make sure that the bottom of your stairs is secured! Someone may go right through the floor if left unattended.
May all your DIY be met with success!
Warmest regards, CC
Thanks for responding Chuck. I understand options one and three. I'm unsure of the second one.
DeleteI think the original part of my house is a two-story house with a basement. The basement was entered outside. Then an addition was built on. Instead of tearing out the existing steps and filling in the gap in the foundation, they built the addition over the existing steps (and foundation around the steps). They then built new steps going down to the basement from the addition. (with the ceiling of the new steps cutting out a portion of the living space of the original house first floor room, along with space for the stairs coming down from the second floor. I'm not sure how the second floor was accessed originally).
So basically if I go down my steps into the basement and turn to the right I have a gap where the basement wall stops and have steps to nowhere going up into the floor of the addition.
Sorry to get off topic a little, a third addition was built around 1900 (found newspaper in wall), which is the kitchen. The whole house is about 1300 square feet. The original part was built before 1850. It is amazing to me a frame structure could last so long.
So there is an angle space from the wall to the old steps, if I understand your explanation? If so, you need to fill this in? I think I would frame it in the heavy material, such as 2x8 or 2x10. This way you can cut the angles to fit with proper strength. Once you secure the floor, then rework the slope from the surface.
DeleteI hope I am making sense and understanding your situation.
Thanks again for asking! Happy and safe DIY!
CC
Hey Chuck,
ReplyDeleteI'm looking to build a wall-mounted computer desk that can support up to 250lbs for my computers/monitors/printer etc.
The desk will be touching 3 walls with dimensions approximately 10'2" L x 30" D and about 2-3" thick.
I have 2 tabletops from IKEA that are 60" x 29 1/2" x 1 1/8" that I was going to use as a surface, but i'm struggling for ideas on how to support the weight (specifically at the front/center) without using legs, and still allowing for not only a comfortable sitting position, but proper structure that everything won't collapse to the floor.
Any suggestions? Thanks!
Derek
Without legs, you are limiting your options. To support this kind of weight, the only thing that comes to mind would be angle braces from the front of the tabletop down to the back wall as close to the floor as possible. 45 degree angles with through fasteners. Be sure to use strong material for the braces.
DeleteThanks for your great question and happy DIY!
CC
I would like to repaint my basement floor which is in great shape, would just like to brighten it up. Its a blue/gray right now. What kind of paint do I use to adhere to already painted concrete floors? Do I need a primer? I have been finding a lot on the topic of painting directly over concrete but not over paint.
ReplyDeleteGreat question, thanks! Paint has come a long way in just a few years. There are products that have paint and primer combined, which will cover almost any surface. Your project has all of the symptoms of proper prep. Prep is the key. Make sure the surface is clean and dry. Use a paint designed for concrete and you should be fine.
ReplyDeleteLet us know how your project turns out and happy DIY!
CC
There is a guy who made a custom desk here...
ReplyDeletehttp://www.sevenstring.org/forum/recording-studio/214797-home-made-recording-studio-desk-img-heavy.html
I'm wondering, I dont see any supports for the middle. Will this desk start to sag over time? If so, how would I correct it?
Your right, it will sag for sure. From the looks of it, you have a couple of options. Notice the two back uprights against the wall? What I would suggest is run a 2x4 underneath the top about three quarters of the way to the front. Ease the front edge with a 22 1/2 degree or a 45 degree angle cut (so you will not bang your knees if you push your chair all the way under). Then finish with a 2x4 angle (45 degrees) on each end (angle cuts will be long point to long point). Make them about 16 to 20 inches in length. Place them as high up between the 2x4 on the wall and under the top. Fasten with screws, but be careful not to go through the top.
DeleteThis will allow for support and not interfere with the functionality of the desk. This example would be your best option. Don't hesitate to ask away if you have any further questions as you proceed.
Hope this helps and good luck with your project! As always, thanks for asking!
CC
Just had a new door knob and separate dead bolt installed. Along with this had carpenter put a new piece of weather stripping along the jam as well. Now door is difficult to shut and even pops open from the striker plate. Any suggestions on how to fix?
ReplyDeleteFirst, try to unscrew the screws on the strike plate and move outward, and tighten back. If no luck, check the jam where the new weather stripping was installed and make sure that there are no areas where the stripping was not properly pushed into the slot.
DeleteDoes you dead bolt not strike either? If so, you will need to shim out the strike to accept the lock strike.
I hope this helps. Excellent question and thanks for visiting. Please ask again if this does not work and we can revisit your situation.
Warmest regards,
CC
Thanks Chuck. The dead bolt does have a strike plate, but that works fine. Will try your suggestions and let you know how it turns out. Appreciate the help!
ReplyDeletePlease do. We can make this thing work for sure!
ReplyDeleteCC
I'm doing a house renovation and expanding a room. We've removed sliding doors and opened up the wall. I've been told the threshhold where the door was will now need to be supported by a beam at it's a loadbearing wall. The beam will be exposed as it protrudes down past the interior ceiling. The span is 13 feet across and right now they want to use 2 12" wide beams with a piece of plywood in between for strength. In addition, two 2x4's go across the top. This will result in a 14" exposed area basically splitting the ceiling where the rooms join. We were looking for something much less. My question is can you use a thicker ( 4 or 5 beams) which are not as wide, say maybe 6 inches and will it provide the same amount of support? Thank you!!
ReplyDeleteThank you for your question. Sorry for the delayed response.
DeleteThis is a standard way to approach this kind of span. It would not be a good idea to try to reduce the width just for looks. There is a product known as microlam that may reduce the width, but that would be left to a professional engineer to verify. As always, a review of the city or county codes is recommended.
Hope this helps and thanks for your question!
Happy and safe DIY.
CC
how much is a good price to charge for pooring over a existing concrete sla 3.5 inches thick @ 2100 sqare feet.. no prepping, just needs poored n finished flat
ReplyDeleteIt will depend on your specific area for material and labor costs. This should be priced by the square foot.
DeleteMy husband said we need a new ladder, but I never realized how many there are out there! Wooden, aluminum, etc. Which is better for what purpose?
ReplyDeleteThank you for your question, as it is a good one!
ReplyDeleteThis is a very important decision. The purpose at hand, as well as any future potential needs are paramount. First, wooden ladders are out.
The types of lightweight materials today's ladders are made out of these days is amazing. I would caution an aluminum ladder if you plan on working outside or by electrical sources. These are the lightest to move around, but can be trouble in electrical storms or by power sources. They also will scratch floors and walls.
Fiberglass ladders are more expensive, but I have to say they are tough and durable. I would not recommend a fiberglass ladder for everyday uses, however (changing indoor lightbulbs, dusting, etc...).
Depending on your specific needs, keep these things in mind to make your final decision.
Respectfully,
CC
Dear Chuck,
ReplyDeleteI am currently attempting to build my first wardrobe out of 90*18mm hardwood maple, I have very limited knowledge and tools on hand so I am trying to be creative. I have already done a rough measurement and layout of the entire construction including hand drilling dowel holes into the 18mm sides and put together without glue. It has been fairly successful as far as lining up and getting flush although not perfect. The biggest differential is about 1.5mm at most but as we know it will all add up in producing a slightly warped and not flat surface. The material is quite heavy and am worried that it will break over time if I remove the dowels at those points where it is not even, should I be concerned about this or should it be alright? That is the first question, the second is whether or not I should attempt to glue all boards per panel at once(total max spread would be 900mm) or should I glue them one at at time or two at a time or half of them...?
Hopefully I was clear enough with my question, if not please ask me to give you further knowledge.
Thanks for your question. Your questions somewhat overlap each other. Your first question, without glue, you would end up with problems because there wouldn't be any fasteners. So secondly, gluing is important. Try to one side and then the other once it has set up. It is never a bad idea to reinforce your shelves with angle fasteners. They strong and inconspicuous. Make sure your dowels are long enough to penetrate both sides!
DeleteAny further questions, don't hesitate to ask!
Happy nad safe DIY!
CC
Hey Chuck,
ReplyDeleteWhen I was stripping a 6-panel pine door, I was too heavy with the pull scraper and hacked up some of the detailed areas. If I could try to explain the part I'm talking about....there are 6 recessed panels on the door, and around each panel there is what looks like a quarter round beading. This quarter round area is what is hacked up. Is there a way to cut out this area, and then maybe glue in new quarter round trim? Thanks!
I'm building a red oak fire pit table. the tabletop will be 1x4 pieces with a half inch in between each piece with a propane heater inset in the center of the table.I have but two coats of stain and I'm going to apply 3-4 coats of marine spar varnish. My question is what it's the best way to protect it from the heat?
ReplyDeleteGreat question! Thank you for allowing us to help you in your pursuit of DIY excellence!
DeleteThis is a tough question and you may not like my suggestion here. The only real way to protect against heat is with metal. You could wrap the area around the heater insert (this resembles a counter stove-top range). If you use stainless steel, this may give you a classic look.
Thanks for your question!
Happy and Safe DIY!
CC
Thank you for your great question!
ReplyDeleteIf you can locate the seem where the quarter round sits, you could take a razor knife and gently score the seems multiple times, breaking the varnish seal, then take the thinnest putty knife you can find and gently tap it into the seem. this will allow you to pry up the quarter round. Do this very gingerly because it has been previously glue and some would will try to come with it. Then you have a mess.
This should allow you to replace the quarter round.
If this is not an option, then buy a Dremel tool and use it with a rounded sanding disk (light grit) and try to sand out the gouges.
Good luck! Make sure you tell us how it turned out!
Happy and safe DIY!
CC
Carpenter Chuck,
ReplyDeleteRecently, My husband and I accepted an estimate from a local window installation company. After agreeing with the salesman's estimate I was confused a couple days later when the install guy came to measure our windows for the install. He proceeded to tell me that after installation was finished I would have to purchase stain and paint a small piece of wood "stopper"? on each window myself. That this piece did not come pre-stained and they couldn't guarantee their stain would match so they leave it up to the customer. I was dumbfounded! I was paying a lot of money for this job to be done and it wouldn't be finished until my husband or I stained the "stopper"? WTF? Does this sound right? Am I being unreasonable to think that paying for a job to be done should mean the company actually COMPLETED the job?? Please help. Should be pull the plug on this company? Or is that standard operating procedure??
Thank you for your question! This is a compelling situation and I am glad to assist.
ReplyDeleteYou are spot on that this is a bad deal. Paying for a service is meant to be completed as the terms state. By no means is this close to standard procedure. I would be very wary of this company if I were you. Think about half way into the job when your home is torn apart, will they be reliable, on time, or neat?
Not to mention, as many years as I have in the building business, I have never heard of a "stopper" for a window.
Be very wary of this one.
Great question, don't hesitate to seek us out for more information.
CC
Hi Chuck, I have a question regarding my entertainment center. It has a base with two little cabinets to open, and then where the TV goes (on top) there are shelves that go on the side, then about 4 inches in there are two vertical wooden boards. I want to take out these wooden boards so that i can fit a bigger tv in there and just not have the shelves anymore. There is still a back piece and two front corner stands where the roof of the entertainment center goes.
ReplyDeleteMy question regards how the two wooden boards, that i want to take out, are connected. It looks like the top of a Philips-head screw facing horizontal but it doesn't go anywhere. It's connected to a screw/piece of metal going vertical into the wood. ( i tried to illustrate it below because I have never seen anything like it before. I wasn't sure how to take those out, if I should try to saw off the metal going into the wood or if there is a way to take out the Philips-head looking screw that is connected to the piece of metal going vertical.
(There are also no holes on top of the entertainment center)
_______________this line is the ceiling of the entertainment center where the metal goes into it
I And these two lines are the metal piece going into the Philips-head hollow piece
I
00 This is the Phillips head hollow piece
Thank you for any help you can provide!
Thank You for your question.
ReplyDeleteWould it be possible for you to take a picture and place it on my Facebook page? It is difficult to envision your situation. On FB we are CarpenterChuck.
Thanks again,
CC
I will do my best. Thank you!
DeleteCarpenter Chuck,
ReplyDeleteI have discovered wood rot at the bottom of the door jam leading out to my deck. In addition, there appears to be addition rot to the interior trim at the bottom of the door jam.
In an effort to mitigate the water damage, I was considering installing a storm door but I've not seen this before. What do you suggest?
Best regards,
AA
Thank you for your question.
ReplyDeleteThis is a common problem and I always suggest looking into any warranty that may be left on the original door purchase. If the door is older and there is no chance of that, then arresting the spread of the rot is the best choice.
Note: (Before you get started, take a sharp pencil and apply light pressure to the potentially rotted area. This will give you some idea of the extent of the damage. If it is significant, you may be wasting you time and money trying to fix rather than replace).
Do this by either buying some high grade exterior latex paint, or in the case of stained surface, a water type sealer (Carpenter Chuck does not currently endorse specific products). A storm door will help greatly to keep water out, but not moisture. Also, be careful with the cylinder placement on the storm door. this may be an issue if the rot is significant. Make sure to use exterior caulk when installing the storm door.
I hope this helps. Happy and safe DIY!
CC
Hey, what is your favorite color?
ReplyDelete